Mul T Lock Classic rekeying guide

[dropcap]T[/dropcap]his is a quick guide to the different pins within a Mul T Lock Classic lock.This is dimple lock with 5 pins, each with an inner pin. The Interactive lock also uses the same pins.There are 4 sizes of outer pins and 5 sizes of inner pin.Outer pins are types A, B, C, and D.Inner pins are 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5On the ID card that comes with the lock, the code is displayed, and identifies the cuts on the key, from bow to tip. However if you have been asked to add a cylinder to an existing suite, or intend keying alike a few locks, being able to ID the cuts on a key is very handy. This method works for almost any cylinder that you have a pinning kit for, and is not exclusive to the Mul T lock range.With practice you can do this by eye, but it is always handy to try out the pins in a spare core, to ensure you have the correct decode.To help differentiate between inner and outer cuts, here is a Garrison key. There are more cut depths on this lock, but no inner pin. In this photo you can see how the deeper cuts (and hence longer pins) create a wider circle on the key blade.The shallowest cut barely marks the key, but the deepest cuts are easy to tell.Here is a normal Garrison key (top) and a Garrison bump key with all maximum cuts (bottom)

a normal Garrison key (top) and a Garrison bump key with all maximum cuts (bottom)

A normal Garrison key (top) and a Garrison bump key with all maximum cuts (bottom)

Here is a sample Classic key.

A sample Classic key. Notice the cuts for the inner pins in the center of each outer pin cut.

The inner pin can either be the same cut depth, 1 deeper, or 1 shallower.Here are the 4 outer pins, A B C and D, from left to right. Notice the anti pick grooves on the pins.

The 4 MTL outer pins in order

Here are the same 4 pins from a different angle.

From below

The inner pins (5 differs) are shown below, and according to the pinning kit, are 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5

1 through 5 MTL inner pins

 

Two complete pins

And so, back to our sample key.

Our target

The first two outer cuts are easy, clipping the very edge of the key, they must be D’s. The third cut again easy, hardly a mark must be an A. So still to decode is cut 3 and cut 5.Three is not as wide as the D cuts, but still takes a piece out of the middle of the key, so it’s a C, and position 5 is wider than an A, but doesn’t touch the middle of the key, so a B.Hence the start of the decode, DDCAB. To confirm this the outer pins are put into a spare core, and the key inserted to check the pins are correct.

On to the inner pins.The rules:If the outer pin is an A, the inner pin must either be a 1 (same height) or a 2 (one cut deeper, which creates a small conical “valley”)If the outer pin is a B, the inner pin can be a 1 (shallow cut, which creates a small “mountain” ) a 2 (same height) or a 3 (1 deeper)A C pin, can have a 2 (shallower), 3 (same height), or a 4 (deeper)A D outer pin, can have a 3 (shallow) 4 (same) or a 5 (deeper).So, with are decode so far as DDCAB, the inner pins can now be decoded and checked with the key.The first cut, D looks like it’s the same depth, so a 4The second cut, another D, looks like it has a mountain in the center of its cut, so we’ll guess as a 3.Third cut, C looks deeper, so a 4Forth cut is an A, and again looks the same depth, so a 1.Last cut is a B, and the same depth, a 2.

So now the decode is DDCAB 43412.The code is checked again using a core.

Correctly coded outer pins - all sitting flush

Correctly coded outer and inner pins - all sitting flush

Here is an incorrect decode, notice the inner pins do not sit flat with the top of the core.

Incorrect - showing wrongly chambered inner pins


The first two positions, the inner pins are too long, and the third position the pin is too short.

And that is all there is to it.

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